Livingstonia, Chintheche & Vwaza Marsh

Paul writes:

I am just back from Malawi after nearly three weeks mainly in Livingstonia. I used your Malawi edition 7, which I found invaluable – especially for the history of the country.

A few comments,

1. Roads to Livingstonia – both the back road from Rumphi and the main road from Chitimba are awful and should only be undertaken in a 4X4. If there has been any rain then go another day! There are roadworks started at Livingstonia but these could take 5-10 years ( depending who you listen to) to complete.
2. We stayed in Livingstonia Lodges, good basic accomodation.Staff were very friendly and cooked our meals, again basic but good. Bring as much of your own food as you can.
3. Craft/ coffee shop in Livingstonia is closed at present, it had just been painted whilst we were there and should reopen very soon.
4. Manchewe Falls, well worth a visit. We got rather swamped by guides who wanted more renumeration than they were given!! We were unable to find a coffee shop at the Falls but did find a ruined Lovers Leap Restaurant!
5. Lukwe permaculture garden, probably the best meal we had in Malawi and certainly one of the most picturesque restaurants , overlooking the Manchewe Falls and Lake Malawi, in which I’ve ever eaten.
6. Vwaza Marshes Wildlife Reserve, not easy to get to, accommodation not up to standard. Disappointing.
7. Chintheche Inn, wonderful location,well run and friendly hotel.

Finally, I’m sure I’m only reiterating what others have said before that, despite the poverty, the Malawians are the nicest, friendliest people I have ever met. I just hope it stays this way but would be concerned re social changes mainly as a consequence of raid population growth and increasing poverty.

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