The entrance fee is 500MK. The man who took my entrance fee was most insistent that I needed an armed ranger with me. I wasn’t keen, and the man was unable to call the ranger, so he let me set off alone. 40 minutes later a ranger turned up and claimed that I needed to be accompanied for my own safety (in case of robbery). It must be said that the ranger was very polite and friendly and knowledgeable, and we had an enjoyable conversation. That said, it was slightly annoying to see a handful of Malawian couples strolling about by themselves, and of course there was a fee for the ranger service = 3000MK – although I genuinely didn’t have this much as I hadn’t anticipated anything besides the entrance fee. (He seemed relatively happy with the 1000MK I was able to give him). But I think people should be aware that there may or may not be a compulsory armed ranger for visits (by tourists, not Malawians, of course). I’m not sure I would have bothered if I had had to pay the full ranger fee on top of the entrance one.