Just wanted to add some info on Nyika. DNPW are running the park at present and accomodation can be booked via them. Chalets are K12,000, rooms K8,000 and camping K1,000. Try firstname.lastname@example.org or ring Mzuzu office on (00265) (0) 1312014. The tourism concession has been awarded – I understand it’s Wilderness Safaris though I don’t know when they’ll start operating. So for now at least no horse safaris, mountain bikes etc. DNPW guides are available to accompany walkers or take game drives (you need to supply the vehicle though!). Access is pretty good at the moment with the road up to the park having been newly graded. There are some gnarly stretches once you are within the park en route to Chelinda but a car with good clearance – and preferably 4 x 4 will be OK. ( Please note there is no fuel at Chelinda so ensure you stock up at Mzuzu and then again at Rumphi. There was no fuel at Rumphi yesterday so don’t wait until then. Animal sightings are good. We saw a herd of 25 elephants a couple of weeks ago (including 5 juveniles and 4 new borns. Leopard are seen every few days often close to camp. The scenery is spectacular at the moment.